StockT.C Restaurant
Terroni’s newest restaurant revitalizes the iconic Canada Post building at Yonge and Eglinton.
StockT.C is the collaboration between Terroni and Cumbrae’s in a 3-storey luxury grocery, restaurant and bar complex. Located in the old Canada Post building at 2388 Yonge St., about a block north of Eglinton, StockT.C is an ambitious addition to a relative no man’s land of dining.
The bones of the building have an enormous character to begin with. Original terrazzo and Art Deco elements abound and Terroni has done an exceptional job mainting the influence of these elements throughout the new interiors. Obviously this is one of the highest budget re-designs in all of Toronto and not only does the design have a superb practical attention, but the materials and objects chosen are clearly meant to last. In an era of surface bling, it’s both refreshing and inspiring to see this level of care and investment in a restaurant space.
Clearly Terroni has learned a lot over the years with each new restaurant opening and it is clear to see both the success and the raising bar of each establishment. Moreover, the thread-line of the Terroni family brand clearly exists amongst all the restaurants. Like a multi-part movie series, it provide a welcoming entry point to the multitude of fans and allows each generation to both have their own space and to choose their favourite based on the mood of the moment.
StockT.C is clearly the busiest and most vibrant of the bunch and even during covid restrictions it has an energy-charged and highly professional feel. Amongst the crowd it was clear to see investment bankers alongside ladies celebrating a large party, young people on dates and refined older couples who have lived in the neighbourhood for years. It’s perhaps Terroni’s ultimate accomplishment that it can attract such a wide range of people.
Of course, to run this scale of operations consistently and efficiently is a feat in itself, but it’s clear from the door staff to waiters, to Mr. Cossimo himself that everyone has full buy-in and complete professionalism.
To achieve such a uniform quality over multiple locations and time-scale is supremely impressive. In this smaller than a chain and larger than a bistro category, to elevate the food quality to a yet higher level is perhaps StockT.C’s most impressive component.
As anyone who as gone to the other Terroni restaurants will know, the menu is very approachable with mostly classic items and a range of everything from seafood to pasta. The approachability has perhaps in the early days, kept it from any noteable culinary groundbreaking, and if you asked the patrons, that’s one of the reasons they stick with it. Predictably good food with enough variety to satisfy each member of your party.
StockT.C keeps generally the same menu as the other restaurants, but it’s just that much better.
Our selections included:
For wine, we started with Angerer Gruner Veltliner which was crisp and dry, with a strong pear overtone. Perfect for end of summer and just acidic enough to guide us through the first few bites.
CALAMARI FRITTI
We started with fried calamari, drizzled with lemon and paprika mayo for dipping. Nothing surprising about the taste or preparation. Simply familiar, with excellent batter and cooked to perfection.
FUNGHI ASSOLUTI
The salad featured Arugula with oyster mushrooms, Parmigiano, garlic, bread crumbs, extra virgin olive oil and balsamic. The proportion of mushrooms and cheese to arugula was perfect and the dressing was just the right acidity to tie it all together. The mushrooms were a little dry but still flavourful.
AGNOLOTTI DEL PLIN
For pasta, we had the Agnolotti which had beef and pork filling, Parmigiano, butter, and grated black truffle topping. The pasta was cooked perfectly and the interior warm while the butter and black truffle added just enough fat and umami to bring out some earthiness in the pasta dough. Sommelier Drew recommended Sohler Pinot Gris Grand Cru as the ideal match for the pasta and I definitely agree with his selection. The slightly sweet Sohler added a meaty punch to the already powerful agnolotti, perfectly balancing the saltiness and fat with a little acidity. As the third dish, it perfectly represented the climax of flavour and activation of our taste buds.
AHI TUNA
Finishing the meal with seared ahi tuna which was slightly warm was a perfect palate cleanser. Cooked perfectly, while nearly raw in the centre, the tuna was seasoned lightly and the accompanying fruity tomato relish flavours offered a light and refreshing yet nuanced coda to the meal.
CREME BRULEE
We finished with a traditional creme brûlée of a large size. The crackle was very well done and the creme was fluffy and light with just the right amount of sweetness.
Overall, the selection of dishes was both satisfying and complementary. The mix of rich and light flavours, fats and freshness suited all our tastes in some way and overall the quantity left us feeling full and inspired.
CONCLUSION
Terroni occupies a niche above chain restaurants and below esoteric dining. For years it has attracted a wide audience with eminently approachable and consistent food, lively yet homey atmosphere and professional service. Few restaurants manage to provide so much to so many for so long. StockT.C seems like a conscious effort to push the bar higher—in decor, in service, in wine, and in quality of food. In all these ways it succeeds and in no way does it diminish the broad appeal by erring into pretension. Walking this tight rope as a business enterprise is a thing of mastery and they should be commended.
PRICE
~$80 USD per person
AVAILABILITY
2388 Yonge St., Toronto, Canada
THE RATING
6/10 Absolute
9/10 Relative
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