Seiko SPB245 Alpinist Reissue
A heritage-infused practical watch that could be your daily driver.
HISTORY
The Seiko Laurel Alpinist was Seiko’s first sports watch originally released in 1959. The SPB245 recreation faithfully incorporates the key aspects of the original watch, namely the triangular 12, 6 and 9 markers and the inset minute track. The original came without date for an extremely pure and symmetrical face design. There is a premium limited edition reissue which maintains the triangular marker at 3 o’clock but adds the day between the 4 and 5 o’clock markers. The sword hands and generous application of lume remain. As with the first Laurel Alpinist, the SPB245 is designed to be both highly functional and also gentlemanly— for the sophisticated mountain man.
The original 1959 Alpinist
DESIGN
Whereas the original Alpinist was 35mm, in keeping with the modern trend towards larger sizes, the SPB245 grows to 38mm. The full dimensions are:
38mm diameter
12.9mm thickness
46.2mm lug-to-lug
19mm lug widthFor all but the biggest wrists, 38mm wears like a dream and because of the lack of bezel, the proportionally large face offsets the smaller physical dimensions to lend a powerful presence to the watch. It’s the best of both worlds and is equally at home slipping under an L.L. Bean or Brooks Brothers shirt-cuff depending on the day’s adventures. The thickness is on par with most modern automatics, although it does sit slightly proud of the wrist due to the protruding exhibition caseback. The movement is technically well-built but is not decorated and while it’s nice to see the action, I would have preferred a more vintage-inspired steel caseback in order to save a millimetre or two of thickness.
The strap is a quasi-patent leather with medium sheen. It’s high quality and generally above what you’d normally see at this price. As with the rest of the watch, the mix of dress and sports style is executed fabulously. The two small natural string loops at the top of the band remind you of the utilitarian nature of the original and also inspire confidence in the durability of the materials on offer here. The deployment clasp is a further nod to the premium nature of the watch, having the useful effect of saving the leather from undue creasing in frequent use. It’s both easy to use and snaps securely. Knowing it’s a luxury addition makes it feel special each time you put the watch on.
The dial is of course the showstopper here. The dark green sunburst colour has the amazing ability to shift character depending on the light. In direct sunlight or in dark areas it appears almost black, while under medium or warm light the forest green emerges brilliantly. The lumed markers appear patina yellow in this light, further enhancing the contrast with the green. It’s one of the most beautiful dials I have seen on a watch. The incredible restraint on the green means that it can be worn with any colour or type of shirt. It looks amazing with a black t-shirt or under a blue Oxford cuff.
Of course, the high-polish case also lends to the versatility of wear. It has just enough bling to accent a suit jacket while also jazzing up a t-shirt. At 19mm, the strap options are limited, but it looks fantastically utilitarian on a nato and positively funky on a pink suede band.
With 200m water resistance, you could add a Barton Elite strap and instantly the watch is transformed into a true sports watch. Take an extra strap on vacation and this can easily be your one watch.
The ever-so-slightly-domed sapphire crystal is highly durable and offers just enough distortion and reflection to make the watch feel both vintage and interesting to look at while remaining supremely legible.
INTERNALS
Powered by the Seiko 6R35 movement, it automatically winds but on unscrewing the crown, you can manual wind as well. Due to the exceptionally long 70 hour power reserve, I noticed that when setting the date changeover, it helps to pre-wind manually to give a firm action to the date change. When wound it changes quickly. The movement features hacking for accurately setting the second hand. Accuracy is typically Seiko-like with +25 to -15 seconds per day claimed. In practice, I have never felt the need to reset the time over a few days. After passing a dozen watches in my collection, my test for automatics is whether the minute hand shows the same minute as on my phone. So far the SPB245 is performing brilliantly.
NIGHT VISION
The lume is typically Seiko— world’s best.
CONCLUSION
The original Alpinist has a cult following among Japanese watch enthusiasts and good examples sell for upwards of $2000USD. Given they are now over 60 years old and offer far inferior lume, shock resistance, water resistance and likely longevity, the SPB245 at half the price new is a bargain.
It successfully encapsulates all the key elements of the original, updates it to a modern scale, yet remains practically small. Apart from vintage nostalgia of the original, the fit and finish of the SPB245 is the clear leader, incredible at the price or competitive at double or triple. There are few current competitors that offer such a range of attractive elements with the added horological lineage Seiko embodies.
Perhaps more than any watch of the past few years, the SPB245 shows Seiko at its very best— the intersection of superb style, function and affordable price. This one deserves heirloom status.
PRICE
$725.00 USD
AVAILABILITY
THE RATING
8/10 Absolute
10/10 Relative
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